An Quang Pagoda
The An Quang Pagoda gained some notoriety during the American War as the home of Thich Tri Quang, a powerful monk who led protests against the South Vietnamese government in 1963 and 1966. When the war ended you would have expected the communists to be grateful. Instead, he was placed under house arrest and later thrown into solitary confinement for 16 months. Thich Tri Quang was eventually released and is said to be still living at An Quang Pagoda.

Binh Soup Shop
It might seem strange to introduce a noodle-soup restaurant as a sight, but there is more to Binh Soup Shop than just the soup. The Binh Soup Shop was the secret headquarters of the VC in Saigon. It was from here that the VC planned its attack on the US embassy and other places in Saigon during the Tet Offensive of 1968. One has to wonder how many US soldiers ate here, completely unaware that the staff were all VC infiltrators. By the way, the pho isn't bad here.

Botanic Gardens
One of the first projects undertaken by the French after they established Cochinchina as a colony was to found the Botanic Gardens. Though once one of the finest such gardens in Asia, they're now merely a pleasant place for a stroll under giant tropical trees. The emphasis is on the fun fair, with kids' rides, a fun house, miniature train, house of mirrors and such.

Cha Tam Church
President Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu took refuge in Cha Tam Church on 2 November 1963, after fleeing the Presidential Palace during a coup attempt. When their efforts to contact loyal military officers (of whom there was almost none) failed, Diem and Nhu agreed to surrender unconditionally and revealed where they were hiding.

Cho Quan Church
Built by the French about 100 years ago, Cho Quan Church is one of the largest churches in HCMC. Jesus on the altar has a neon halo, though the best reason to come here is for the view from the belfry (a steep climb). The church is between ÐL Tran Hung Dao and Ð Nguyen Trai. Sunday Mass is also held here.

Cholon Mosque
The clean lines and lack of ornamentation of the Cholon Mosque contrast starkly with nearby Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhist pagodas. In the courtyard is a pool for ritual ablutions. Note the tiled niche in the wall (mihrab) indicating the direction of prayer, which is towards Mecca. The mosque was built by Tamil Muslims in 1932. Since 1975 it has served the Malaysian and Indonesian Muslim communities.

Cong Vien Van Hoa Park
Next to the old Cercle Sportif, which was an elite sporting club during the French-colonial period, the bench-lined walks of Cong Vien Van Hoa Park are shaded with avenues of enormous tropical trees.

Dam Sen Park
Dam Sen Park is the place for slightly bizarre fun, where you'll find giant animals made of coconut shells and CDs. Within its landscaped gardens are lakes and pagodas, an ice-block wonderland and a roller coaster. Couples nap on lawns while those in formal wedding regalia have portraits taken

Fine Arts Museum
The decaying grandeur of this French colonial building houses an eclectic display of art. Spread over three floors, the collection features work from the classical periods alongside abstract and modern Vietnamese pieces. The garden cafe is a preferred spot for elderly gentlemen to exchange stamp collections and sip iced tea.

Giac Lam Pagoda
Believed to be the oldest pagoda in greater HCMC, Giac Lam Pagoda dates from 1744. It's a fantastically atmospheric place full of gilded statues (over 100 in all), colourful wall panels (depicting among other things the path to enlightenment as well as the tortures awaiting those condemned to hell) with one of the country's most impressive stupas (which is 32m tall).

Giac Vien Pagoda
Architecturally similar to Giac Lam, the striking Giac Vien Pagoda shares with it an atmosphere of scholarly serenity, though Giac Vien is less visited and in a more rural setting near Dam Sen Lake in District 11. The pagoda was founded by Hai Tinh Giac Vien in the late 1700s. It is said that Emperor Gia Long, who died in 1819, used to worship at Giac Vien. Today 10 monks live here.

Ha Chuong Hoi Quan Pagoda
The typical Fujian Ha Chuong Hoi Quan Pagoda is dedicated to Thien Hau, who was born in Fujian. The four carved stone pillars, wrapped in painted dragons, were made in China and brought to Vietnam by boat. There are interesting murals to each side of the main altar and impressive ceramic relief scenes on the roof.

Hall of the Ten Hells
On the left-hand side of the Jade Emperor's chamber in the Jade Emperor Pagoda is another room. It contains the famous Hall of the Ten Hells, carved wooden panels illustrating the varied torments awaiting evil people in each of the Ten Regions of Hell.

History Museum
The stunning Sino-French-style building that houses the museum is alone worth the visit. The many valuable relics taken from Cambodia's mystical Angkor Wat deserve some pensive minutes. The museum has a fine collection of artefacts illustrating the evolution of the cultures of Vietnam dating back to the Bronze Age, and a good museum gift shop

Ho Chi Minh Museum
The Ho Chi Minh Museum is in the old customs house in District 4, just across Ben Nghe Channel from the quayside end of ÐL Ham Nghi. Nicknamed the 'Dragon House' (Nha Rong), it was built in 1863. The tie between Ho Chi Minh and the museum building is tenuous: 21-year-old Ho, having signed on as a stoker and galley boy on a French freighter, left Vietnam from here in 1911 and thus began 30 years of exile in France, the Soviet Union, China and elsewhere.

Jade Emperor Pagoda
Built in 1909 by the Cantonese (Quang Dong) Congregation, the Jade Emperor Pagoda is truly a gem among Chinese temples. It is one of the most spectacularly colourful pagodas in HCMC, filled with statues of phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes. The pungent smoke of burning joss sticks fills the air, obscuring the exquisite woodcarvings decorated with gilded Chinese characters.

Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda
Built between 1939 and 1942 by the Cantonese Congregation, Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda is said to be the only Taoist pagoda in Vietnam and is unique for its colourful statues of Taoist disciples. The number of true Taoists in HCMC is estimated at no more than 5000, though most Chinese practice a mixture of Taoism and Buddhism.

Le Van Duyet Temple
Dedicated to Marshal Le Van Duyet (1763-1831), the Le Van Duyet Temple is also his burial place as well as that of his wife's. The marshal was a South Vietnamese general and viceroy who helped put down the Tay Son Rebellion and reunify Vietnam. When the Nguyen dynasty came to power in 1802, he was elevated by Emperor Gia Long to the rank of marshal. Le Van Duyet fell into disfavour with Gia Long's successor, Minh Mang, who tried him posthumously and desecrated his grave.

Mariamman Hindu temple
This is the only Mariamman Hindu temple still in use in HCMC and is a little piece of southern India in the centre of town. Though there are only 50 to 60 Hindus in HCMC - all of them Tamils - this temple is also considered sacred by many ethnic Vietnamese and ethnic Chinese. Indeed, it is reputed to have miraculous powers. The temple was built at the end of the 19th century and dedicated to the Hindu goddess Mariamman.

Military Museum
Just across Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem is a small Military Museum devoted to Ho Chi Minh's campaign to liberate the south. Inside is of minor interest, but some US, Chinese and Soviet war material is on display outdoors, including a Cessna A-37 of the South Vietnamese Air Force and a US-built F-5E Tiger with the 20mm nose gun still loaded. The tank on display is one of the tanks that broke into the grounds of Reunification Palace on 30 April 1975.

Municipal Theatre
A grand colonial building with a sweeping staircase, the Municipal Theatre is hard to miss at the intersection of Ð Dong Khoi and ÐL Le Loi. Call for information on performances held here.

Museum of Ho Chi Minh City
Housed in a grey, neoclassical structure built in 1886 and once known as Gia Long Palace (later, the Revolutionary Museum), the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City is a singularly beautiful and amazing building.

Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda
Built by the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation, Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda is noteworthy for its gilded woodwork. A large carved wooden boat hangs over the entrance, and, inside to the left of the doorway is an enormous representation of Quan Cong's red horse with its groom. The great general Quan Cong himself occupies a position in a glass case behind the main altar, with his assistants flanking him on both sides

Notre Dame Cathedral
Built between 1877 and 1883, Notre Dame Cathedral is set in the heart of HCMC's government quarter. The cathedral faces Ð Dong Khoi. It is neo-Romanesque with two 40m-high square towers tipped with iron spires, which dominate the city's skyline. In front of the cathedral (in the centre of the square bounded by the main post office) is a statue of the Virgin Mary. If the front gates are locked, try the door on the side of the building that faces Reunification Palace.

Ong Bon Pagoda
Built by the Fujian Congregation, Ong Bon Pagoda is yet another atmospheric pagoda full of gilded carvings and the ever-present smoke of burning incense. It's dedicated to Ong Bon, the guardian who presides over happiness and wealth. In hope of securing good fortune from the deity, believers burn fake paper money in the pagoda's furnace, located across the courtyard from the pagoda entrance.

People's Committee Building
HCMC's gingerbread Hôtel de Ville, one of the city's most prominent landmarks, is now somewhat incongruously the home of the Ho Chi Minh City People's Committee. Built between 1901 and 1908, the Hôtel de Ville is situated at the northwestern end of ÐL Nguyen Hue, facing the river. The former hotel is notable for its gardens, ornate façade and elegant interior lit with crystal chandeliers. It's easily the most photographed building in Vietnam.

Phung Son Pagoda
The Phung Son Pagoda is extremely rich in statuary made of bronze, wood, ceramic and hammered copper. It's peopled with a mix of gilded and beautifully carved statues (some painted). This Vietnamese Buddhist pagoda was built between 1802 and 1820 on the site of structures from the Oc-Eo (Funan) period, dating back at least to the early centuries of Christianity. The foundations of Funanese buildings have been discovered here.

Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda
Built in 1902 by the Fujian Congregation, Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda is one of the most beautifully ornamented pagodas in HCMC. Of special interest are the many small porcelain figures, the elaborate brass ritual objects and the fine woodcarvings on the altars, walls, columns and hanging lanterns. From outside the building you can see the ceramic scenes, each containing innumerable small figurines, which decorate the roof.

Presidential Receiving Room
The ground-floor room with the boat-shaped table was often used for conferences. Upstairs in the Presidential Receiving Room - the one with the red chairs in it - the South Vietnamese president received foreign delegations. He sat behind the desk; the chairs with dragons carved into the arms were used by his assistants. The chair facing the desk was reserved for foreign ambassadors. The room with gold-coloured chairs and curtains was used by the vice president.

Quan Am Pagoda
Cholon has a wealth of wonderful Chinese temples including Quan Am Pagoda, founded in 1816 by the Fujian Chinese congregation. The roof is decorated with fantastic scenes rendered in ceramic from traditional Chinese plays and stories. The tableaux include ships, people and several ferocious dragons. The doors are decorated with old gold-and-lacquer panels.

Reunification Palace
This is one of the most fascinating sights in HCMC, because of its striking modern architecture and the eerie feeling you get as you walk through the deserted halls. The building is preserved almost as it was on the last day of the Republic of Vietnam in 1975. A statue of Ho Chi Minh and a viewing room are the latest additions.

Saigon Central Mosque
Built by South Indian Muslims in 1935 on the site of an earlier mosque, the Saigon Central Mosque is an immaculately clean and well-kept island of calm in the middle of the bustling Dong Khoi area. In front of the sparkling white-and-blue structure, with its four nonfunctional minarets, is a pool for the ritual ablutions required by Islamic law before prayers. Take off your shoes before entering the sanctuary.

Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda
Built by the Fujian Congregation in the 19th century, Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda retains most of its original rich ornamentation. The pagoda is dedicated to Me Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility. It's particularly popular among local women who come here to pray for children.

Temple of King Hung Vuong
Across from the entrance to the museum you'll see the elaborate Temple of King Hung Vuong. The Hung kings are said to have been the first rulers of the Vietnamese nation, having established their rule in the Red River region before it was invaded by the Chinese.

The Sacred Horse of Quan Cong
To the left of the entrance of the Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda is a life-size figure of The Sacred Horse of Quan Cong. Before leaving on a journey, people make offerings to the horse, then stroke its mane and ring the bell around its neck.

Thien Hau Pagoda
Built by the Cantonese Congregation in the early 19th century, the large Thien Hau Pagoda is dedicated to Thien Hau and always has a mix of worshippers and visitors, mingling beneath large coils of incense suspended overhead.

Thien Hau (also known as Tuc Goi La Ba) can travel over the oceans on a mat and ride the clouds to wherever she pleases. The Goddess is very popular in Hong Kong and Taiwan, which might explain why this pagoda is included on so many tour-group agendas.

Ton Duc Thang Museum
The small, seldom-visited Ton Duc Thang Museum is dedicated to Ton Duc Thang, Ho Chi Minh's successor as president of Vietnam, who was born in Long Xuyen, An Giang province, in 1888. He died in office in 1980. Photos and displays illustrate his role in the Vietnamese Revolution, including a couple of very lifelike exhibits representing the time he spent imprisoned on Con Son Island.

Tran Hung Dao Temple
The small Tran Hung Dao Temple is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a national hero who in 1287 vanquished an invasion force, said to have numbered 300,000 men, that had been dispatched by the Mongol emperor Kublai Khan. The temple is a block northeast of the telecommunication dishes that are between Ð Dien Bien Phu and Ð Vo Thi Sau

War Remnants Museum
Once known as the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, the War Remnants Museum is now the most popular museum in HCMC with Western tourists. Many of the atrocities documented here were well publicised in the West, but rarely do Westerners have the opportunity to hear the victims of US military action tell their own stories.

Water Puppetry
Although it originates in the north, the art of water puppetry has migrated to HCMC in the last decade - in part because of its popularity with tourists. There are two venues to see water puppets in HCMC: On the grounds of the War Remnants Museum and at the History Museum. Schedules vary, but shows tend to start when a group of five or more customers has assembled. Expect a 20-minute show, performed by truly skilled and imaginative puppeteers.

Xa Loi Pagoda
Famed as the repository of a sacred relic of the Buddha, Xa Loi Pagoda was built in 1956. In August 1963 truckloads of armed men under the command of President Ngo Dinh Diem's brother, Ngo Dinh Nhu, attacked Xa Loi Pagoda, which had become a centre of opposition to the Diem government. The pagoda was ransacked and 400 monks and nuns, including the country's 80-year-old Buddhist patriarch, were arrested.